Symphonie Barbare, From chaos to purity | Franck Sorbier Haute Couture AW25
Words by Stella Di Placedo, Photographs by Tennessy Hubner
It’s Paris, seated in Pavillon Wagram at 11am, suddenly the lights shut off. An intense music begins, in the shadows - a silhouette is dancing, it’s the vagabond spirit. The barbarian revolt descends upon the audience. All the while, a queen sits upon her white fur throne. Suddenly, a silence engulfs us, the atmosphere changes, everything becomes brighter. It’s the warriors of peace accompanied by a soprano and two star ballerina. Franck Sorbier Haute Couture AW25 shows its fangs. The collection, a poem depicting the creator's sensibilities while a paradox presents, garments barbarized. Beyond a catwalk, theatrical performance art was enacted. Interweaving elements of audio, dance and opera, immersed us in Sorbier’s universe for a short while.
As time passed and the scenography evolved, the tones of the collection became increasingly pure. The story began by honoring craftsmanship with dark tonal dresses reminiscent of warrior attire. Reptilian elements amidst deconstructed fixtures presented a reversion to primalism… Finally leading to soft and flowing dresses. From strength to softness, organic materials became ornaments alongside delicate fabrics. The jacquard work was re-cut and embroidered, bringing the textiles to life with an added depth and texture.
The barbarian revolt was a narrative tale depicted via a patchwork of black fabric, compression, silk chiffon, organza imbued with an “organic” spirit. Dresses, tops and skirts made of black jacquard in the style of “vat paper” were cut into sinuous skin-like strips. Open backs, lace ruffles, embroidery, velvet satin ribbons, black braided imitation leather, fringes and braided straps became staples within the collection. This season, Sorbier offers us much more than expertly crafted garments, the designer also reveals an animal which lives in each of us. Divided in two parts.
As the tale unfolded, the warrior of peace gave way to more fluid, delicate garments. Floral designs, minimized motifs in double silk organza stitched and frayed by hand, were found alongside leaf appliqué and tulle shreds embroidered with pearls and sequins. One of the standout pieces was an iridescent breastplate, which featured lacquered gray velvet decorations. Many of the creations were crafted in archives, a tribute to Monsieur Beauvillain. Notions of peace closed the show, as text was transcribed by generationally diverse models, adorned by flowing dresses in a white-grey tonal range.
The maison entered couture in July 1999, In 2005 Franck Sorbier became a renowned Grand Couturier. Highly modern, Haute Couture operates as a bridge between a tradition of craftsmanship and innovation.
In successive movements, his fantastical imagination created a lasting impact, allowing the season’s offerings to remain engraved in our minds as we spent the show immersed in Sorbier’s world. In a final grand gesture, the designer descended the stairs, turning his back to the audience whilst wearing a colorful jacket, embroidered with a “peace” symbol. A powerful nod to striving for a safer and more peaceful world for all its inhabitants, especially noteworthy considering the current global political climate. Franck Sorbier is a wave-maker in the fashion world, using his art to convey a message.
