OPIA x Converse | London Fashion Week AW25
Words by Lauren Bulla, Photographs by Lily Maguire
Converse joined forces with OPIA this AW25 season during London fashion week, highlighting the everyday grime and glamour which coexists in the queer club kid scene. Co-founded by Bambi and Bauti, OPIA hosted the evening which presented successive performances, each more hedonistic than the last, highlighting the best of those who dwell in the queer late night music scene. Models included the co-founders themselves alongside Theo, Zinzi, Jacqui, Safe, Martina, Webster, and Dodo. Guests enthusiastically entered The Oval, meeting a converse logo, spray painted backdrop. Energy was high while attendees were encouraged to take photographs in their best OPIA-inspired fits. Most of those who were clearly the embodiment of the queer rave scene in London, outfits extensive, detail oriented and bitchy beyond doubt, to say the least.
Crucifixes appeared at the helm of black thongs, peeking out from mesh layers, intricate makeup looks, and some of the tallest platform boots you’ve ever witnessed were all on display…And this was just guest attire, pre-catwalk. Ciroc sponsored drinks of the night, summer fruits and dark berry flavored tinnies could be seen flying off the bar, nearly as soon as they hit it. Leather - a staple amongst the crowd, presented a juxtaposition against the glitter adorning many of the hypnotised eyes in the audience. Upon venturing into the red lit venue, it was immediately apparent that we would be witnesses to something undeniably special.
The event was clearly akin to that of a standard night out for most of the crowd, pulling out all the stops for makeup looks and outfits that would stun on any runway. I remembered looking around and being in sheer shock at how tall the audience was, everyone naturally clearing 6ft, or stilted on 7” platforms of various shapes and materials. Ranging from leather to canvas, it was clear we were at the IT-G(ay)IRL event of the AW25 season. The unabashedness that circumvents OPIA’s brand is part of its intoxicating intrigue. You want to know what’s going on, you may even discover some of its hidden secrets, but ultimately there’s something inherently mystical about their world… The best part? OPIA isn’t necessarily looking to be defined.
Garments were playful, colourful, sexy and perfect for any club goer/ raver to wear to the next function. Styling was varied, showing the breadth of the expansiveness that circumvents clubwear. Short sweat shorts existed in the same universe as corsets, latex pieces, mesh, and faux furs. One of the standout pieces was Bambi’s top - encrusted with fuschia gemstones which read: “Retired Party Girl”. Classic converse were sellotaped to the soles of clear acrylic platformed pleasers as the performers ran, danced, and screamed throughout, fully dedicated to the runway.
The duo teased the audience for a while, precluding the runway-turned-hedonistic-afterparty with a stacked range of DJ sets. Soundtracked by Taahlia, Salvia, Georgia Palmer, Jone of Arx, & Becky Stroke, the duo presented a swoon-worthy lineup. As the lights dimmed and the catwalk began, the crowd swarmed a clear cube based at the centre of the warm-tone-lit hazy room. Inside it contained two white vinyl messily covered sofas and platforms. Mixed in with the presentation soundtrack was the audio “I love chuck” on repeat, creating an ominous, almost cultish air to the performance, the audience in awe.
During the initial moments that kicked off the presentation, Lovecat (“Martina, if ur nice”) could be seen brushing Bambi’s bleach blonde 18” hair. Before we knew it, the event shifted to wild ass-shaking, which metamorphosed into models spray painting the clear walls. Hands were heard banging on the sides of the cage, screaming in adoration of the models inside. Once positioned around the catwalk, we suddenly found ourselves right up against the walls - as close as we could possibly be to all the action. The whole venue was transfixed as we watched the models have the time of their lives: dancing, kissing, and flailing about. After a while of this, every so often an alarm would sound and one of the models would get “eliminated”.
The collaboration with Converse speaks volumes to the rebellious nature shared between the two brands. In celebration of the underground fashion scene, the “Converse Chuck Taylor All Star” is the perfect companion to accompany a collection which aims to highlight queer creative momentum in the club kid scene. OPIA believes that fashion is not inherently exclusionary, just that sometimes you have to be the one to set off your own sounding alarm. They noted, “We write our own narrative: we are mainstream because we say so”. OPIA creates their own avenues, just as Converse are infinitely customisable, “DIYing culture is emblematic to our work, the same way every subculture has taken a fresh pair of Chuck Taylors and found a way to personalise it to their walk of life”.
The iconic duo is known for their outlandish yet pointed content as well as their eclectic style which all sits upon the “hijackings of mainstream culture” whilst making it their own. The final scene was imbued with the hastily left enticements of what was once a partygirls’ night well lived. By the time all had exited the venue there was an electricity which still hung in the space. What was truly leftover? Smeared makeup and red spray paint used to tag the insides of the cub structure with “OPIA” and “I ️Chuck”. It was truly an exhilarating sight as we witnessed some of queer London’s royalty come together under one sweaty, sexy, hedonistic roof.