Acne Studios: The Year of The Snake
Words by Lauren Bulla, Photographs by Fish Zhang
2025 brings a new series of entanglements, challenges, ideas, and inspirations… In Acne Studios’ case, it also brings new meditations on iconic garments and longstanding motifs. The brand presents a limited-edition selection inspired by the Chinese Lunar New Year, now set to enter the year of the Snake. The brand’s newest collection aligns with notions of transformation, newfound wisdom, all brandished by Ambassador, Sandra Ma.
The garments represent a powerful nod to the attributes of those born in years positioned alongside this scaly creature. Those of which are predicted to have a proclivity for calm demeanor, possessing deep intuition. The Chinese New Year presents us with the Spring Festival, officially commencing on January 29th, marking the start to a powerful 2025 and its’ many associated qualities. The new collection includes vibrant firetruck red to deep maroon colourways. All whilst highlighting emblematic snake prints which have been renewed, refined. Fluttering tendrils surrounding the edge of split-leg thin strapped dresses, perfectly complement mesh detail - slowly leading us from winter into spring. The flyaway details in particular remind me of a series of pieces by Ukranian brand, SHEVCHENKO which I witnessed throughout their upcoming collection this past season. Shedding layers similar to these earth-bound creatures, each piece is not only stand-alone, but also endlessly layer-able.
Nodding to good-fortune, these associations are imbued throughout each work, alongside standard Acne furnishings. Wardrobe staples like the iconic woolen scarf are newly presented via monochrome colourways of layered reds. The design creates a vague but subtle plaid pattern, unveiled as the scarf becomes unfurled. Two of the standout pieces have to be the leather handbags presented via this collection, presenting distinct shapes and themes. A black shoulder bag is curated via a stingray or fortune cookie-esk shape. One I imagine to be a recurring theme throughout the swiftly approaching SS25 season. Particularly as I saw similarly shaped bags at the TAOTTAO press day during New York Fashion week earlier in autumn 2024. The other, a worn brown leather bag is adorned with delicate bows over double front pockets, designed to sit gently over the shoulder. All the while, an ACNE STUDIOS heart tag is punctured through the rectangular front layer, fixed and keychain-like.
The collection includes new shapes and forms, including a ruffle strap dress, python-print skin-tight T-shirt, presented via a gray and red tonal range. ACNE’s 1996 logo T-shirt is embellished with crystalline structures similarly replicating the scales on these shedding reptiles. Gold chrome sunglasses redefine the previously popular “speed-dealer” design I saw all over London Fields last summer. This time, curated more delicately and intricately than before, presenting a new take on the trend. Silver is out, gold is in. Opulence is a mindset - not just a price tag, evidently. Dramatic shapes are juxtaposed with loose-fit shimmery denims, festive gradients, and the Bowlina bag in embossed leather.
In times which are uncannily difficult to define, the year of the snake presents us an opportunity to cling to what we’ve learned, to action those changes. I believe we will see a resurgence of animal prints in new formats that we may have been drawn to in our youth. An uncanny nostalgia, maybe. Toned down colour palettes of primary colours like red, presented via neutrals, is where attention to detail will take the stage. There’s a fixation on the severe contrasting with the delicate at the moment, which is seen clearly in this collection. Pale neutrals adorned with shimmery crystals, present while snakeskin aligns with soft pink bows. I think previously popular coquette-core will take nuanced forms via harder themes and materials arriving in cycles throughout 2025. Showcasing that it is not only powerful to be proud of softness, but that two things can be true at once.
Credits:
Words by Lauren Bulla
Photographer: Fish Zhang
Styling: Zhe Guo
Executive Producer: Xiaoli Cai
Director: Zheng Hao
Assistant director: Pangpang Huang
Producer：Rui Ryu
DOP: Stevo
Gaffer: Yaobin Cao
Editor & Sound design: Yinshijia Bai
Colorist: Min
Online: Sylvie Liu
Production: Ketchup Studio
Set Design: Hyein Xi @Ketchupstudio, Siyan Yue